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Wine Review Online

2017 Barolo 'Mosconi'

Although this is priced a bit lower than Gagliardo’s 2017 from the Monvigliero cru, I found this slightly more impressive overall, which is saying something. It isn’t as bright and taut as the Monvigliero, but its ripe richness is deeply endearing, and will enable it to be enjoyed more fully in its youth. Nearly full-bodied, but with no hint of over-ripening or over-extraction, which was very deftly handled when macerated, fermented, and aged. There’s a bit of wood showing, but the wine’s core of fruit balances this out easily, and the oak spice notes offer lovely accents to the ripe fruit flavors (dark cherries and black raspberries). Some savory notes are already emerging, and this is on a faster developmental pace then the Monvigliero, so enjoy this from now until about 2026 to catch it in its prime.